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One found with joy that the South Indian seasoning podi – a rubble of searingly hot, roughly ground spices, which you stir into a little oil and use as a accompaniment for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” blend. This is accurate if you were using my grandmother’s homemade dried chilies, but it would be kind to say that I’m far less adventurous with chilli, so here I suggest chilli flakes instead. It’s an extraordinarily good marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Gunpowder Paneer and Potato Skewers with Mint-Lime Dressing

Gather six to eight metal or wooden skewers (if wooden, soak them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 min
Cook 30 minutes
Serves two people

400g firm potatoes, cut into 1.5-inch chunks
225g paneer, diced into 2cm cubes
One tsp coriander seeds
Half a tsp fennel seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
One tsp black peppercorns
1 tsp chilli flakes
1½ tsp flaky sea salt, plus extra to serve
2 garlic pieces, peeled and grated
2½cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated
about 3 tablespoons mild oil
1 red onion, prepared and divided into eight wedges, then cut in half horizontally

For the dressing
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime
0.35 ounces fresh mint leaves, minced
Half a teaspoon flaky sea salt
100g natural yoghurt

Cook the potatoes for about 10 minutes, then remove the water and let them dry from steam for a minute. Meanwhile, put the paneer cubes in a pot of hot water for a short while, then drain and pat dry.

Tip the coriander, fennel and cumin seeds into a grinding bowl or mill, add the salt, chili flakes, and peppercorns, then crush or grind to a chunky blend.

Place in a large mixing bowl with the shredded aromatics, add the oil, then lightly combine with the cubed paneer, cooked potatoes and red onions to coat. Thread the vegetables and cheese on to barbecue sticks, then move to a sheet pan and set aside until needed – if you like, you can at this stage store in the fridge the skewers.

Stir all the sauce elements in a container. Preheat the broiler to its maximum heat, then bake the sticks for a short time on each side, until the paneer is crispy and the potatoes are getting slightly burnt. (This may take a little more or less time depending on the heat of your broiler, so keep an eye on them, especially when cooking the first side.)

Serve the skewers hot, sprinkled with a little more sea salt and the dressing alongside for dipping.